The different construction of the Danish reflects its use on a bolster pillow, where the weight of the bobbin was used to keep tension. The very fine thread also dictated its lighter shaft and smaller head sizes; a large head got easily tangled among the fine threads and could break them.
Averaging 4 inches in length, the Danish bulbs are beween 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch in diameter. I make around ten shaft styles and five bulb shapes which can be combined in any way. Bulbs may match the shaft wood, or be a burl or acrylic. Danish are the only bobbins I bead. If you prefer to do your own beading, simply let me know.
For those who ask about bone Danish, it is very difficult to find bone thick enough for a bulb. But the shaft can be bone matched with burl or acrylic. Bone shaft Danish are $15.00 each.
Bulb styles are:
Ball, which has two rings of beads
Bell, well, that is fairly descriptive
Disc, which is really a ball with one ring of beads
Ring, a loose ring, the only one which must be wood
Sugar Loaf, a conical shape with two rings of beads
A word on the seed beads used on Danish; I had the opportunity to see several antique Danish bobbins. In each case the beads are deliberately set to rise above the surface of the bulb. I was told this was to help reduce rolling, and while not as efficient as a spangle, if you try it, you will find it does help, especially on a bolster pillow.
There are some legends associated with some of the bulb and head types of Danish bobbins. The sugar loaf supposedly got its name due to its (upside down) resemblance to a common bread of the region. A bobbin with a much larger head is known as a Mayor.
They are not meant for spangling and will NOT be drilled!
